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| African Fat-Tailed GeckoEnclosure Selection Health Feeding BreedingCrunch Time! Things to Look For Transporting Geckos Please note: You may notice that this care sheet is very similar to the Leopard Gecko Care Sheet. This is because the two animals require almost identical husbandry. However, there are some vital differences, so be sure to read carefully and dont assume it will all be the same. Crunch Time! It’s best to have your enclosure set up for at least a week before introducing animals so you can ensure the temperatures are stable and that you have everything the way you like it. Any adjustments once the geckos are in the tank will stress them further and extend the settling in period. You will probably know by now whether you want one or more geckos, and have an appropriately sized enclosure. However if now, here are a few things to take into account. 1) Geckos will do fine on their own. It is not necessary to keep two so they can keep each other company. They are solitary animals although they will tolerate cage mates. They are also known to display brighter colouring if kept singly. 2) Two males in the same enclosure will result in one gecko. They are very likely to fight to the death. There are reports that in a big enough enclosure two males were kept successfully along with several females, but it is not recommended that you try this. 3) A male and a female in the same enclosure will result in hundreds of geckos. They will more than likely breed and produce many eggs per year. If this appeals to you read over the breeding section for further information. Breeding geckos takes a lot of work and money and is not for the beginner reptile keeper. 4) Two females should get along fine but as with humans some geckos just don’t like each other! Things to Look for When Buying A lot of geckos are imported in poor conditions and not given proper care in the shops. It is always better to purchase your first gecko from a breeder, so you know it has been given the correct care and will (hopefully) live a long and healthy life. There are a number of key things to look out for to give yourself a good chance of success: 1) Snout should be dry and nostrils not blocked. 2) The gecko should not be gaping, or visibly struggling to breath 3) Eyes should be bright and clear. Gecko should be alert and attentive. 4) The skin should not appear loose, and the outline of the gecko should be smooth 5) Tail should be plump 6) Check there is no mess around the vent. Look for runny stools in the enclosure. 7) Stools should be black or nearly black with white urates. 8) There should be no missing toes 9) There should be no visible sweating, open pores, mites or ticks on the skin. 10) The gecko should be AT LEAST 6" snout to tail. When purchasing the gecko you should ask the seller for as much information as he has on it. Things to ask about include age, gender, history of disease, eating habits, food offered, and information and dates of any vaccinations it may have had. If you intend to use it as a breeder you should also ask about the parents. Transporting Geckos A small plastic animal tank is idea, the kind that have ventilated lids and a clear access flap are perfect. If this is not available, a cardboard box with plenty of ventilation holes can be used. In either case, pad the inside well with paper towels to prevent injury, and lay the box flat on the floor of the car, not on the seat where it can fall. Even better, get someone to go with you and hold it. Resist the temptation to open the box en route as you can scare the gecko and cause considerable stress. The shop/breeder you purchase from may be able to lend you a suitable container on the condition you bring it back. On arrival at home place the box in the enclosure for a few minutes to allow the gecko to warm up if it has been a cold journey, then carefully open the box and allow the gecko to climb out. Leave it be for at least 24hrs to settle, and then carefully start offering food. Avoid any sudden movements and do not attempt to handle the gecko at this point. It can take up to a week for them to settle in and take food readily, if its been longer than about 10 days or if the animal looks ill consult a vet. Once its eating you can start to attempt to handle it. Lay your hand flat on the substrate and allow it to climb on of its own accord. You can tempt it with food if you wish. Once it is on your hand, lift your hand but not out of the enclosure. It may run for it so don’t move to fast or too high. As it becomes more comfortable you can then start removing it from the enclosure and handling it briefly but regularly and in time it can become very tame, at times even seeming to want out. The trick is slow steps and patience. They are very timid and shy creatures so take your time, it’ll pay off in the end!
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