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| Bearded DragonEnclosure Selection Health Feeding BreedingCrunch Time! Things to Look For Transporting Bearded Dragons Crunch Time! It’s best to have your enclosure set up for at least a week before introducing animals so you can ensure the temperatures are stable and that you have everything the way you like it. Any adjustments once the dragon is in the tank will stress it further and extend the settling in period. You will probably know by now whether you want one or more dragons, and have an appropriately sized enclosure. However if now, here are a few things to take into account. 1) Beardies will do fine on their own. It is not necessary to keep two so they can keep each other company. They are solitary animals although they will tolerate cage mates. 2) Two males in the same enclosure will result in one dragon. They are very likely to fight to the death. There are reports that in a big enough enclosure two males were kept successfully along with several females, but it is not recommended that you try this. 3) A male and a female in the same enclosure will result in hundreds of dragons. They will more than likely breed and produce many eggs per year. If this appeals to you read over the breeding section for further information. Breeding dragons takes a lot of work and money and is not for the beginner reptile keeper. 4) Two females should get along fine but as with humans some beardies just don’t like each other! Things to Look for When Buying A lot ofbearded dragons are imported in poor conditions and not given proper care in the shops. It is always better to purchase your first from a breeder, so you know it has been given the correct care and will (hopefully) live a long and healthy life. There are a number of key things to look out for to give yourself a good chance of success: 1) Snout should be dry and nostrils not blocked. 2) It should not be gaping, or visibly struggling to breath 3) Eyes should be bright and clear. lizard should be alert and attentive. 4) The skin should not appear loose. 5) Tail base should be plump 6) Check there is no mess around the vent. Look for runny stools in the enclosure. 7) Stools should be black or nearly black with white urates. 8) There should be no missing toes 9) There should be no visible sweating, open pores, mites or ticks on the skin. 10) The beardie should be AT LEAST 8" snout to tail. When purchasing the dragon you should ask the seller for as much information as he has on it. Things to ask about include age, gender, history of disease, eating habits, food offered, and information and dates of any vaccinations it may have had. If you intend to use it as a breeder you should also ask about the parents. Transporting Bearded Dragons A small plastic animal tank is idea, the kind that have ventilated lids and a clear access flap are perfect. If this is not available, a cardboard box with plenty of ventilation holes can be used. In either case, pad the inside well with paper towels to prevent injury, and lay the box flat on the floor of the car, not on the seat where it can fall. Even better, get someone to go with you and hold it. Resist the temptation to open the box en route as you can scare the dragon and cause considerable stress. The shop/breeder you purchase from my be able to lend you a suitable container on the condition you bring it back. On arrival at home place the box in the enclosure for a few minutes to allow the animal to warm up if it has been a cold journey, then carefully open the box and allow the beardie to climb out. Leave it be for at least 24hrs to settle, and then carefully start offering food. Avoid any sudden movements and do not attempt to handle the dragon at this point. It can take up to a week for them to settle in and take food readily, if its been longer than about 10 days or if the animal looks ill consult a vet. Once its eating you can start to attempt to handle it. Lay your hand flat on the substrate and allow it to climb on of its own accord. You can tempt it with food if you wish. Once it is on your hand, lift your hand but not out of the enclosure. It may run for it so don’t move to fast or too high. As it becomes more comfortable you can then start removing it from the enclosure and handling it briefly but regularly and in time it can become very tame, at times dancing at the glass to be let out. The trick is slow steps and patience. They are very sociable creatures so take your time, it’ll pay off in the end!
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