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| Green IguanaEnclosure Selection Health Feeding BreedingCrunch Time! Things to Look For Transporting Iguanas Crunch Time! Before deciding to buy an Iguana, there are a number of things you need to take into account. To start with, they grow to about 6 feet, and an iguana that size needs a cage the size of a small room. 4 feet by 4 feet base by 6 feet high is the absolute minimum for an adult, and it's better if it's a little bigger than that. Also, as they get older they can get very grumpy and are capable of inflicting serious wounds. The other concern is that iguanas, like all other reptiles, can carry the salmonella bacteria. Given the size of them, the potential for spread is great as they will produce large amounts of waste, and when allowed to roam will generally cover a much larger area than, say, a bearded dragon. The potential for injury and the complexity of their care, not to mention the seriousness of the injuries they can inflict makes them totally unsuitable as pets for children. Please also bear in mind that if well looked after they can live up to 15 years. That's 15 years of cleaning, feeding, vet visits, handling, and buying lightbulbs/uvb tubes/kilograms of salads. If you still want one, read on! It's best to have your enclosure set up for at least a week before introducing animals so you can ensure the temperatures are stable and that you have everything the way you like it. Any adjustments once the iguana is in the tank will stress it further and extend the settling in period. Things to Look for When Buying When purchasing your animal, there are a number of things you should check for to ensure that it is healthy. A lot of iguanas are imported in poor conditions and not given proper care in the shops. It is always better to purchase your first from a breeder, so you know it has been given the correct care and will (hopefully) live a long and healthy life. There are a number of key things to look out for to give yourself a good chance of success: 1) Snout should be dry and nostrils not blocked. 2) It should not be gaping, or visibly struggling to breath 3) Eyes should be bright and clear. Lizard should be alert and attentive. 4) The skin should not appear loose. 5) Tail base should be plump 6) Check there is no mess around the vent. Look for runny stools in the enclosure. 7) Stools should be black or nearly black with white urates. 8) There should be no missing toes 9) There should be no visible sweating, open pores, mites or ticks on the skin. 10) Iguanas are voracious eaters. If offered food, a healthy iguana will almost never refuse food . If you are purchasing a juvenile, it SHOULD BE SKITTISH, SCARED, AND ERRATIC. All hatchlings and juveniles are nervous animals and will be scared of us until a bit bigger. If an animal sits calmly in your hand it hasn't been tamed, it is lethargic and ill and you should not only avoid that animal, you should refuse any other animal in that cage. Do not buy any lizard from a cage that contains one or more ill animals as there is a high chance that it is also infected. Even if it is not showing symptoms just now, once you induce stress whilst transporting it the immune system will slow and the symptoms may surface. When purchasing the iguana you should ask the seller for as much information as he has on it. Things to ask about include age, gender, history of disease, eating habits, food offered, and information and dates of any vaccinations it may have had. If you intend to use it as a breeder you should also ask about the parents. Transporting Iguanas A small plastic animal tank is idea, the kind that has a ventilated lid and a clear access flap are perfect. If this is not available, a cardboard box with plenty of ventilation holes can be used. In either case, pad the inside well with paper towels to prevent injury, and lay the box flat on the floor of the car, not on the seat where it can fall. Even better, get someone to go with you and hold it. Resist the temptation to open the box en route as you can scare the iguana and cause considerable stress. The shop/breeder you purchase from may be able to lend you a suitable container on the condition you bring it back. On arrival at home place the box in the enclosure for a few minutes to allow the animal to warm up if it has been a cold journey, then carefully open the box and allow the iguana to climb out in its own time. Leave it be for at least 24hrs to settle, and then carefully start offering food. Avoid any sudden movements and do not attempt handling at this point. It can take up to a week for them to settle in and take food readily, if it's been longer than about 10 days or if the animal looks ill consult a vet. Once it's eating you can start to attempt to handle it. Lay your hand flat on the substrate and allow it to climb on of its own accord. You can tempt it with food if you wish. Once it is on your hand, lift your hand but not out of the enclosure. It may run for it so don't move to fast or too high. As it becomes more comfortable you can then start removing it from the enclosure and handling it briefly but regularly and in time it can become very tame, at times dancing at the glass to be let out. The trick is slow steps and patience. They are very sociable creatures so take your time; it'll pay off in the end!
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